Having spent over five years now in London and nearly a decade with a British partner, I am fairly confident with my comprehension of British culture. Sure there are all the stereotypes that Americans tend to associate with the Brits–tea, crumpets, the Queen, color with a “u”, black cabs, double-decker buses and bulldogs –those are easy. Then there are the references and institutions that fly well under the radar of the average cultural voyeur. From popular culture to local traditions to occasional encounters on the street, there are some things that are so uniquely British that if I didn’t live with a Brit, they would go completely over my head.
The simplest place to start would have to be the Christmas Crackers. No British Christmas dinner is complete without these snappy little packages. Placed at each guest’s dinner setting, a cracker is sort of a cross between a fortune cookie and a piñata and contains a minimum of four key ingredients: 1) a bad joke; 2) a useless prize; 3) a paper crown; and 4) an element within the cracker that produces a cracking sound that cracks when the package is torn apart. Tradition as to when the crackers are cracked apparently varies from the north of Britain to the south of Britain–some people crack them at the beginning of the meal, while others crack them just before pudding (dessert). The tradition of the cracker is quite communal. Everyone crosses their arms across their chest while gasping firmly on one end of the cracker. The person seated next to them takes the other end, and this position continues around the table. With a one, two, three countdown, the crackers are all pulled resulting in a resounding “POP!” From there, you dive into your cracker. Paper crowns are donned, prizes are compared and much like the fortune from Chinese fortune cookies, the jokes are all read aloud–each followed by an audible groan from the crowd.
When I first moved to Britain, I lived in an expat bubble. My friends were mostly other Americans, and as I hosted guests at my place during my first Christmas in Britain, we completely missed the cracker course. It was only when I started dating Lee and began having a real English Christmas, that I learned about Christmas Crackers. Although all crackers carry all the basic ingredients, it wasn’t until this past Christmas that I realised the degrees in cracker quality. Not all crackers are created equal. Pretty much every retailer wants to cash in on the cracker action. From Tesco to Harrods, you can find the cracker that is right for your budget. What does remain the same, regardless what strata of society you happen to fall in, everyone at the table invariably wears their paper crown for all or part of the meal. It’s all terribly British.
Guy Fawkes Day or Bonfire Night is another tradition that seems to elude most non-Brits. Started in 1605, the evening commemorates the foiling of a plot by the Catholic Guy Fawkes and his band of rebels to blow up the Houses of Parliament. Fireworks are launched throughout the land, and bonfires with effigies of the Pope, Guy Fawkes or the unpopular politician of the day (Sarah Palin, George W. Bush, etc) are tossed onto the fire. No one seems to bat an eye at the holiday’s anti-Catholic sentiment. But again, for newcomers to Britain, if someone doesn’t explain Bonfire Night, it just seems like an ordinary night that happens to have fireworks. In fact, back in 2006, one London neighbourhood decided that they had so many immigrants for whom the celebration meant nothing, that they scrapped Guy Fawkes and replaced him with a Bengal tiger. While this created an uproar in the press, other councils dominated by politically correct mandarins seemed to think it was a good idea too. In 2011 the Southwark council proposed to rename the age-old tradition “The Colour Thief: A Winter Extravaganza Celebrating The Changing Of The Seasons”. While I understand the desire councillors have to creating cohesion within a community, can’t this also be done by educating people on why the holiday came into existence in the first place?
Apart from silly Christmas traditions or controversial Pope-burning ceremonies, the Brits also have a whole slew of pop culture that never made it to the States (or at least not to Minnesota). The Carry On films stand out as quintesentially local humor . Made from the late 1950′s through the late 1970′s, the films hold a unique place in the hearts of many a Brit–or dare I say, the English. Camp, bawdy, silly and profoundly slapstick, they were full of innuendo, double-entendre and titty jokes. Think Benny Hill, but on the big screen. The names of each film gave viewers a pretty good idea what they could expect to see: Carry On Sergeant, Carry on Doctor, Carry on Spying, Carry on Cowboy…you get the picture.
Produced on a shoestring, the films typically featured an ensemble cast with a number of well known regulars including Kenneth Williams, Hattie Jacques and Barbara Windsor. Last spring Lee and I were perusing in a shop in Brighton called England at Home where we came across a collection of plastic plates and cups, each emblazoned with scenes from Carry On Camping. Knowing his sister Sue is both an avid camper and more importantly a self-respecting Carry On fan, we snatched the last complete set up. Birthday present, sorted. While the actual jokes and plots of each film have all but faded into the nation’s collective memory, the series has had a lasting impact on modern Britain, particularly when it comes to headlines. When the Conservative party failed to secure a clear majority and was forced to forge a relationship with the Liberal Democrats, one newspaper’s headlines declared, “Carry On Coalition!” To the untrained reader, it might appear the newspaper was cheering the politicians on, but a seasoned Brit would see through the words and understand that the editors were not only mocking the politicians, but challenging them to get their act together. I suppose the closest thing I can think of as an American would be to call something a “three-hour tour...”
While in today’s market where media conglomoerates may only do a show if it has huge international appeal, it seems quaint that there was a time when British television didn’t cross the pond. When Lee and I make it back to the States, we invariably get caught in a conversation with some American just who just adores Mrs. Bucket. Most everyone we meet knows AbFab, AliG, and the impregnable Downton Abbey. But what about the Two Ronnies? A sketch comedy show from the 1970s catapulted two already well known talented comedians, Ronnie Barker and Ronnie Corbett, into true British legends. But while their sketches have become iconic here in the UK–how many times have I heard or even now uttered the phrase “Four Candles” with a knowing smile–I’d wager a bet there are few of my tribe that would know who they are. About the closest reference for Americans would be Harvey Corman and Tim Conway.
As I write this, I am acutely aware that in our über-connected global community where we can access practically everything in just a few keystrokes, it is easy to become smug about what we know. History, commentary, films, pictures–you name it–are all at our fingertips. Everything we could possibly want to know about a culture is instantly accessible, but most likely only if you have heard about it in the first place. Tea, the Queen, black cabs are all done to death, but the other day I stumbled in a shop in my own neighbourhood that truly transported me into another era, the pie and mash shop.
A pie and mash shop sells exactly what it says on the tin (another British expression): meat pies and mashed potatoes. Some sell jellied eels or stewed eels, but pies, mash and licker are the mainstays. (While reading up a bit more since then, I’ve seen licker written as liquor; perhaps that is the correct spelling, but as it is a tasty treat that makes you want to lick your plate, I’ll use Harrington’s spelling.) When I first moved to London back in 2003, there was a shop on Tower Bridge Road that had a sign out front advertising eels. I didn’t dare enter in. Then about a year ago, I spotted Harrington’s pie house on my way to get my hair cut. Tucked in between a Halal butcher and an opticians is one of a handful remaining pie and mash shops. I asked the girl hanging outside what the place was and she told me they sold pies. Being on the go, I didn’t stop. Then the other day, Lee and I were out in Tooting doing some errands when we got a bit peckish. He suggested we try the pies. Stepping into the shop, I was amazed at its simplicity. A counter on one side. Tables with wooden benches on the other side. People walked in briskly, ordered their food and then sat down and ate it, or dashed off with the hot meal in hand.
Lee ordered first. “I’ll have a pie with mash, please.” You want “licker?” the woman asked. “Yes, please,” Lee replied. “You want just a bit of licker or as it comes?” “I’ll take it as it comes.” She picked up the pie, plopped it onto the plate, then using an ice cream scoop, wiped two dollops of potato onto the rim of the plate. With the flick of a wrist, she proceeded to pour a healthy portion of green gravy (licker) on top of it all. “You?” she asked. “I’ll have the same, but easy on the licker.”
We found an empty table and sat down to enjoy our meal. I have to say, I felt really foreign. It wasn’t the food, that was tasty. It was the complete package. It was as if I had ventured into a world where only the English ventured. As we sat and ate, a steady stream of customers popped in. “One pie, two mash and licker.” “One pie, one masher and licker.” “Two pies, two mash and licker.” The woman at the counter greeted them all with a smile and within about a minute, the customer was off.
As we finished our meal and paid our bill, I asked if I could come back and take some pictures. “We’re closed on Mondays, but if you come back on Tuesday, Bev will be here. She owns the place. It’s been in her family for over a hundred years, and I’m sure it’ll be fine.”
I stopped in the next Tuesday and sure enough, Bev was there. She had heard I was coming. I’d left my camera at home, as I didn’t want to presume I could just start snapping. “Come back around three,” she said. “It’ll be a bit quieter then.” “I can take pictures, right?” I asked. “Sure.”
I returned at three and Bev greeted me with a smile. The line was still long and though I felt a bit obtrusive, once the customer was served, Bev made me feel right at home. We sat down at one of the tables and she told me a bit about her shop. Her granddad had opened the place back in 1908. When he died, her grand nan took over. She passed it onto her son. When he died, his wife took the place over. Bev’s father took it over from her and after thirty-seven years in the business, he then passed it onto Bev when he retired at sixty-five, and she herself had started working in the shop when she was thirteen.
Pretty, well-spoken, no-nonsense and clearly a good businesswoman, Bev has all the ingredients for a strong business. Now…I’m a photographer and I happen to write. I don’t consider myself as an investigative journalist, but I did get to ask Bev a few questions about her shop and the place it holds within the community. Her customers are largely English. While Tooting is quite a multicultural neighbourhood, when someone indicates their customers are mainly English, it’s safe to assume their families have been in England for generations, and that there are not that many newbies like me popping in for lunch.
Harrington’s menu hasn’t changed since it opened, and even more importantly, the recipe has remained the same as well. Passed on from one generation to the next, the pie is made with minced beef and two types of pastry–one type for the base and one for the top. The mash is just mashed potatoes–no milk, no cream, no salt, just potatoes. “And the licker?” I asked. “Oh, it’s just a parsley sauce,” Bev answered slightly evasively. I could sense she didn’t want to share her secret licker recipe. My friend Will is a caterer, and he told me that he once had to make it.
The licker is just stock with parsley and cornstarch. Bev let me know there is a wee bit of green colouring added to give its hue.
Another couple of guys walked in. Bev darted behind the counter. “Double-pie, double-mash & licker.” She served them up and returned to our conversation. “What’s the plan for the business, then,” I asked. “Will you pass it along to your children?” Bev took a slight pause and said that was the unknown question. She has two girls and two sons, three of whom had worked in the shop and the youngest was ten, but he too would join the ranks at some point. Another customer stepped in. “Is it ok if I take some pics?” I asked as she made her way to the counter. “Sure.”
A few of the customers were camera shy when this strange American asking a lot of questions pulled out a camera. One woman, Miss Bush was quite happy to help out. “I’ve been coming here for years,” she told me. “My mum took me here when I was a girl, and I’ve been coming here since.” She then told Bev she remembered Bev’s father and that her own mum and Bev’s dad had been in hospital at the same time. “Was that when he was in for cancer?” Bev asked. Miss Bush nodded.
Bev sat down again, and we continued our conversation. “Have you been in Tooting all your life?” I asked. “I don’t live in Tooting,” she replied, “but I’ve been here all my life.” “Has the neighbourhood changed?” “Oh yes. Most definitely.” Once a largely white working-class neighbourhood, Tooting became a destination for many Indian and South Asian immigrants when Idi Amin expelled them from Uganda in 1972. Since then, the Asian population in Tooting has grown from a handful of families to now over 20% of the population. But walking down the high street in Tooting, you get a sense that it is much more than 20%. While there are a handful of national chains–Sainsbury’s, Boots, all the big banks, and even a Caffe Nero, a fair bulk of the shops are Asian-owned, underscoring the unique nature of Bev’s shop.
Regardless of colour or creed, the cool thing about Tooting has to be its working-class roots. When the riots hit London last August, I was impressed that our neighbourhood didn’t suffer the same fate as some of the neighbourhoods around us. While Tooting has a number of shops that were at the top of the looter’s list, we weren’t hit. In deconstructing the (lack of) impact of the riots on Tooting afterwards with our friend Charlie at our local pub, we concluded that it was the common shared value of working hard to make a better community crossed ethnic boundaries and helped keep Tooting out of looters way.
As an island of Englishness in a neighbourhood of chain stores and ethnic shops, my thoughts returned to the future of the pie shop. Could a shop that only serves minced beef pies and jellied eels survive another hundred years? Clearly from the unending stream of customers, the market is there. Was she concerned that the shop would be squeezed out by a sanitized chain restaurant or transformed into a Curry house. ”Not at all,” Bev said. Her biggest fear, however, was that when everything was said and done, would one of her kids have the drive and vision to take the helm. Her youngest daughter was sitting behind the counter. Bev nodded in her direction, “She’s off to uni next year,” Bev said. “My other daughter, maybe. The boys, not sure. It’s just not the same as when we were kids. Well, I can’t speak for you,” she said, “but I know it wasn’t the same for me.”
I took my last shots and shook Bev’s hand. As I stepped out the door onto the street, I felt less foreign than when I first stepped in and dare I say it, I felt a sense of pride, British pride. Bev’s steely resolve and pragmatic approach reminded me of how Britain has remained a global power for centuries. Though I personally cannot trace my ancestors back for generations here in the UK, I took comfort in the thought that if her children have half the resolve of their mother, they should have have no trouble seeing the business into the next century too.














































